Casamia (Bristol)

Number of visits: 1

Peter and Jonray Sanchez-Iglesias run this brilliant restaurant, which has received many accolades for its season-led menu (they change their decor accordingly as well). The 10 courses made for a journey of delightful eating, the food was playful at times, while showing exemplary levels of execution.

A plate of trout and cabbage was really interesting: the trout was cooked beautifully, the pink flesh yielding easily to the fork, while its subtle taste worked well with the different forms of cabbages, the charred one a particular stand out. The final touch of powdered purple cabbage created an aesthetic vibrancy along with an additional, delicate layer of flavour. An excellent dish that was well put together.

Casamia
38 High Street, Westbury Village
City of Bristol BS9 3DZ

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The Manor

Number of visits: 1

New sister restaurant to Robin Gill’s much acclaimed The Dairy, The Manor seems very much to be cast from the same mould in terms of food style; fantastic ingredients with their natural flavours teased out and paired optimally.

Cauliflower might sound like a dull-ish ingredient, but here it really was something else. You know that moment when you taste something, and you go ” How on earth did they do that?!”? Well, you’ll get that here. There was a really complex taste, with multiple layers of flavours from the different components working harmoniously to great effect. There was the subtle sweet nuttiness of the cauliflower, the contrasting bitterness from cacao and umami from the kefir. The dates were an inspired addition, its sweetness elevating the profile of the dish. Also, the various textures on it and beautiful plating made for a stunning course.

You’ll get to adjourn to the dessert bar afterwards to witness your pudding being lovingly handcrafted (liquid nitrogen features heavily here). Easily one of, if not the best, openings of 2014.

The Manor
148 Clapham Manor Street
London SW4 6BX

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The Fat Duck (Bray)

Number of visits: 1

Much has already been written about the Fat Duck, and duly so, as the food here is quite amazing. Modern techniques are used to produce whimsical courses that are really fun to eat, such as this one.

A foam made from mushrooms and seaweed bought about memories of the sea breeze, while moreish “sand” made from sardines and tapioca starch, a trio of King fish, octopus and mackerel (particularly good), and different types of seaweed worked together to interpret what the sea tastes like, in the best way possible. The famous ipod in a seashell playing the sound of the sea while you eat completes the multi-sensory component of the experience. (if you have the time, Taste: Surprising stories and science about why food tastes good by Barb Stuckey is a good read about how the different senses can add to your eating experience. This course is referenced in the book as well)

A real destination restaurant, it’s really worth coming here at least once to experience what they have to offer. You’ll have to wait till the latter part of the year to visit though, as they’ve made a short term move to Melbourne while the kitchen is being renovated.

The Fat Duck
High Street
Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AQ

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December was a real bumper month, so I’d like to just sneak one more in by talking a little about:

Primeur

Tucked away in a space that existed as a motor shop previously, Primeur is a great gem that I wish opened nearer to where I live. A buzzy atmosphere, great cooking & wine (squid, lemon, capers and parsley was a particular highlight) made for a great evening here.

Primeur
Barnes Motors, 116 Petherton Road
London N5 2RT

Angelus

Number of visits: 1

Smart French brasserie-type cooking is what you will find at Thierry Tomasin’s Angelus. The food here was really tasty, as evidenced by this dish of duck liver.

One of the restaurant’s signatures, it features a smooth mousse of duck liver lying underneath a layer of brûléed sugar. Just like the dessert it was styled after, the crunchy top offers a textural contrast to the rich content it hides; in this case, sweet and savoury work in harmony to deliver a most delicious result.

Angelus
4 Bathurst Street
London W2 2SD

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Hoi Polloi

Number of visits: 1

Brought to you by the team behind Bistrotheque and Shrimpy’s, Hoi Polloi offers simple sounding dishes that are cooked really well.

Large cuts of moist, tender chicken tasted lovely on its own, but it was elevated by well made garlicky aioli, and a gravy which brought everything on the plate together. Simple, clean flavours that worked well together, it was something I would not mind having at least once a week. (ok I might stop after a few times)

Hoi Polloi
Ace Hotel, 100 Shoreditch High Street
London E1 6JQ

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Midsummer House (Cambridge)

Number of visits: 1

Situated along the idyllic river Cam, Daniel Clifford’s lovely restaurant is right up there with the best in the country. Dishes showcased a really high level of technical ability and superb ingredients, such as this one.

A beautifully cooked piece of cod was topped with red pepper, its sweetness accentuating the taste of crab present on the plate. They were accompanied by mash so good that it set me on a mad quest to search for Mayan Gold potatoes at my local grocers. It was a medley of tastes that swirled about in a perfect dovetail, and to borrow a phrase from Jay Rayner’s judging at Top Chef Masters, there was a lot going on, but I wanted to stay for the whole show. From the amuse-bouches to the mignardises, it truly was a masterclass in technique and flavours (don’t miss out on the Bottereaux!).

Midsummer House
Midsummer Common
Cambridge CB4 1HA

City Social

Number of visits: 1

Jason Atherton’s restaurant empire has been growing at an impressive rate; the Social family of restaurants can also be found in Singapore, Hong Kong and soon, Dubai. A tiny worry about him spreading himself too thin was proven to be unfounded, as the kitchen sent out dish after dish of wondrous cooking, with a bowl of linguini and seafood a particular highlight.

Al dente linguini was adorned by prawns, squid, mussels and a razor clam, looking like an interpretation of the crown King Neptune would wear while ruling the seas. Each piece of seafood tasted delicious on its own; the flavours were rounded and brought together by a sauce made from the cooking juices, which really did bring the dish to the next level. I had to stop myself from licking the bowl clean.

City Social
24th Floor, 25 Old Broad Street
London EC2N 1HQ

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Fera at Claridge’s

Number of visits: 1

Simon Rogan’s taking over of the Claridge’s space was always going to generate a buzz in food circles, given his success with L’enclume and the French. His style of food is evident here, turning ingredients grown on his Lake District farm into delightfully creative dishes.

This dish of quail had a really amazing depth of flavour, the tender meat marrying well with the other ingredients on show, while the surprising addition of roe provided a nice textural contrast. A fine example of the clever combinations, great ingredients, and maximum flavour showcased during the meal.

Fera at Claridge’s
49 Brook Street
London W1K 4HR

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Manchester House (Manchester)

Number of visits: 1

The kitchen here is headed by Aiden Byrne, who you might recognise from the Great British Menu. His ability to utilise modern techniques in the quest for flavour makes for an interesting menu, as evidenced by this dish containing elements from the land and sea.

Would you have guessed the dish or its ingredients from the picture? It was a real clever bit of cooking; reminiscent of the Portuguese Alentejana dish (pork, potatoes and clams), the different components here produce flavours that are more than a sum of its parts. The salt cod potato “soup” treaded close to foam on a scale from liquid to gas, providing a light savoury mouthfeel of the sea as you reach for the soft, beautifully cooked pieces of pork belly hidden underneath.

Manchester House
18-22 Bridge Street, Spinningfields
Manchester M3 3BZ

Kurobuta, Marble Arch

Number of visits: 1

Kurobuta first appeared as a pop-up in Chelsea, before going permanent alongside the Marble Arch site. Styled as an izakaya, Scott Hallsworth (of Nobu fame) offers a different side to what one might expect of Japanese food. What you will find here instead, is a myriad of fusion dishes that promise big in-your-face flavours.

The pork belly dish definitely delivers on that promise, big time. The unctuous belly melts as you attempt to bite down on it, while the intense smoky flavour provides a reminder of the embers it was cooked on, combining in an explosion of flavour that leaves you wanting more. We had to order an additional portion to prevent a fight breaking out over what was left on the first plate.

Kurobuta Marble Arch
17-20 Kendal Street
London W2 2AW

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Typing Room

Number of visits: 1

Helmed by chef Lee Westcott (who has quite the CV having worked at Tom Aikens, Noma and Per Se among others), the Typing Room is a venture backed by Jason Atherton (who else?).

The menu throws up interesting ingredient combinations, such as this dish of cauliflower and raisins. An intriguing display of textures and flavours, it featured cauliflower prepared with varying techniques, their sweet nuttiness echoed by raisins, while capers provided the contrast. A smart dish which was easy to look at and even easier to eat.

Having taken over the space that was once Viajante, comparisons are inevitable. Though the styles are evidently different, it’s safe to say that the Town Hall Hotel has found a worthy successor. The current kitchen definitely has loads of talent, and I thoroughly back them to go on even further.

Typing Room
Town Hall Hotel, Patriot Square
London E2 9NF

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Kanada-ya

Number of visits: 1

A relatively new addition to the London ramen scene, Kanada-ya has been staking its claim on the title of being the best, and based on the evidence, it’s hard to argue against. Ramen at its best is the ultimate comfort food; a warm, thick broth tucking you into bed like a duvet, while springy noodles and flavoursome slices of pork belly send you off to dreamland. Kanada-ya’s rendition of the tonkotsu, created in Yukuhashi, Japan, is one such fine example. From the rich and flavourful broth with “bouncy” noodles (you get to choose the doneness), to the savoury yet sweet egg cooked to the right level of gooeyness (additional order), it was all first rate. Definitely my favourite bowl of ramen in London right now. With no reservations being taken, you’ll have to get there early or be willing to brave the queue.

Kanada-ya Ramen Bar
64 St Giles High Street
London WC2H 8LE