Portland  

Number of visits: 3

With news came out about the strong team behind the restaurant, Portland quickly emerged as one of the most highly anticipated openings of the year. Founders Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau, were at the lovely Quality Chop House and 10 Greek Street respectively. In the kitchen, former In De Wulf sous Merlin Labron-Johnson has a penchant for strong flavours, achieved by techniques such as smoking, fermentation and curing. The menu is short and simple, changing regularly with a couple of specials on the wall board.

A first course of corn was most delightful. Sweet and smoky, every bite was not unlike buttery bursts of summer. Browned bread crumbs (I think) and girolles added texture, while a dollop of crème fraîche added just the right amount of tang, which left me wanting more.

From the cracking snacks to kick start a meal like pig’s head croquette, to the affable and passionate front of house, you can really feel that the place is a labour of love from the entire crew. It’s places like this, that will keep you coming back again and again.

Portland
113 Great Portland Street
London W1W 6QQ

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The Square

Number of visits: 2

Phil Howard needs little introduction. Judge-mentor on last week’s Great British Menu’s Northern Ireland leg, he’s been hailed as a chef’s chef for his culinary accomplishments, amongst other numerous accolades. The restaurant itself celebrates its 24th anniversary this year, maintaining its long-standing place as a Mayfair institution since relocating from St James’s. Rooted in classical French techniques, the menu highlights the changes in seasons, with dishes cooked to the highest level of precision.

The lasagne of Dorset crab with a cappuccino of shellfish and champagne foam, is a signature for a reason. Layers of sweet crab meat were deftly sandwiched by toothsome spinach pasta, and topped with a dreamy cloud of champagne. The true showstopper, however, was the shellfish soup, rich with unbelievable depth. How many shellfish carcasses did it actually require to get that amount of flavour? Guess I’d have to find out from the restaurant’s book.

The kitchen doesn’t believe in chasing after the latest trends, rather, it focuses on the pursuit of pure deliciousness. It is this timeless approach, coupled with elegant cooking, that has allowed the restaurant to withstand the test of time, and ensures it remains more than relevant in the ever-evolving London scene.

The Square
6-10 Bruton Street
London W1J 6PU

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Paradise Garage

Number of visits: 1

The third instalment (click on December and March for thoughts on the Manor and the Dairy) from Robin Gill and co sees a departure from Clapham, to a neat airy spot under the Bethnal Green railway arches. Under head chef Simon Woodrow (formerly of Arbutus, the Dairy and the Manor), the food continues in a similar vein, treating excellent ingredients with a modern touch to produce bold, complex flavours. The menu follows suit too, split into the different sections of: snacks, garden, sea, and land, with dessert overseen by Kira Ghidoni (from the Manor) for a fitting end to your meal. Unique to Paradise Garage is a standalone choice, Picnic, a celebration of rabbit to be shared by the whole table.

A dish of Presa, pig head, beans and lettuce was particularly outstanding. Presa (a cut from the pork shoulder) was cooked to just the right side of pink, preserving its juiciness.  Coco beans were delightfully buttery, while the unctuous pig head was a welcome distraction between bites. Bits of anchovy melded into the sauce added another lovely flavour, rounding off the flavours on the plate.

These 3 restaurants may have come from the same stable, but they each have their own personality and individual quirks. What is clear though, is that they certainly stand out as some of the best options in town for a casual and fun dining experience.

Paradise Garage
254 Paradise Row, Bethnal Green
London E2 9LE

Over the last half decade or so, we have witnessed the burgeoning role of food in our lives. We care more about how food is sourced and produced, and are more willing to try out new restaurants/cuisines than we did before. In the case of the latter, an increasing desire for quality dining experiences has sparked a quest to find the best restaurants.

Alongside the word of mouth, conventional guides like Michelin have historically served as the main reference points, though new age media has added a whole new dimension to the search. Critique no longer rests solely in the hands of professionals; the internet and social media has removed the obstacles from before, via food blogs, and crowd-sourced sites like TripAdvisor.

The question then arises: what roles do these different sources play?

Formal guides/lists

Although crowd-sourced sites have garnered the most attention in recent times, published lists and guides like Michelin and the World’s Best 50 (W50) remain a vital benchmark. They are my first resource whenever I wish to find a great option, in particular, the annual Michelin and Good Food guides are trusty companions in this never-ending pursuit.

There are a number of reasons why they are so valued. They provide immediate recommendations; the x number of Michelin-starred restaurants or winners in the W50 from a city can become a concise list of places for you to work through, removing the need to trawl through a multitude of sources.

Also, despite the controversies and debates over their relevancy in today’s world (more on that later), these guides/lists remain highly influential. A Michelin star or two is fantastic for improving the business, while the pinnacle of 3 stars is instant gold dust. When Noma was announced as the World’s Best Restaurant in 2010, their phone couldn’t stop ringing, and they had enough requests to fill the restaurant for the next 8 years.

The common key to this impact, is their reputation and branding. It can be argued that being included in them guarantees a certain level of quality. Michelin, being a long-established name in the field, boasts a team of professional inspectors working full-time. They remain anonymous, promising fair treatment in the course of their work, which is verified before publication. This argument applies to the national newspaper critics too, who are able to communicate in-depth and rounded stories to their readers.W50, on the other hand, features a trio of food writers, chefs and gastronomes as their judges, hoping to achieve a more representative view from people in the know. This promise of an informed process, coupled with expert opinion, fuels the influence that they have on the industry.

Of course, these publications do have their critics. Michelin has been lambasted as being out of touch, in favouring classical approaches to dining. Closely guarding its less-than-transparent process of awarding/taking away stars does it no favours as well, although steps have been taken to address these worries. Diners have also contested some of the guide’s choices, disagreeing with some of the awarded stars, while questioning why others like The Ritz have been constantly overlooked. Even the identity of Michelin has come under fire, case in point: Barrafina has been serving consistently brilliant Spanish tapas in its Soho branch for a good 6-7 years, but was awarded a star only recently. The decision came as a bit of a surprise; indeed, the food there is fantastic, but their no-reservations, casual style did not necessarily fit into the “typical” kind of restaurant that the guide seems to be fond of. Also, why only award the star now, and not before?

The W50 has received its fair share of criticism as well. Detractors slam the list’s penchant for trendy multi-course, boundary-pushing restaurants. The selection process has come under close scrutiny, prompting the collective, Occupy50best, which seeks to challenge them. Issues include the effect of national tourism boards being culpable of sponsoring “gastro-tourism” in a bid to attract judges to their countries, while luminaries such as Joël Robuchon have indicated that it is almost impossible to prove that these judges have indeed dined at the restaurants they voted for. Also, with individual listings for each continent published in addition to the main World rankings, inconsistencies have seemingly appeared. For instance, in the 2014 rankings, D.O.M was #3 in Latin America and #7 in the World. However, while Astrid Y Gastón was #2 in Latin America, it was #18 in the World. Does this make sense?

Additionally, since they are fixed at publication, updates only occur annually, and are thus unable to reflect any recent changes. They are also less applicable in smaller markets (cities which they don’t cover), and that’s where new age media can plug the gap.

New age media

The explosive surge in social media has allowed everyone to share our food experiences; from crowd-sourced sites to blogs, the balance of power has been tipped from restaurants to their diners. The value of these sites lies in them utilising the wisdom of crowds, with the intention of being a fairer representation of the masses, and not just, say, a couple of critics. They also function as (mostly) up-to-date directories, easily filtered by location via your phone. This has proved to be most convenient when travelling around new cities; I have used Tripadvisor and Yelp many a time to make quick choices if I hadn’t done any prior planning.

The major concern with online review sites, however, is trust. What’s to stop one from writing a good/bad review without even visiting the restaurant? Unusual restaurants have constantly occupied spots amongst Tripadvisor’s best rated with questionably exceptional reviews, while stories of competitors aiming dire reviews at each other seem to be regular occurrences. The latter was met with much dismay in France, where restauranteurs and chefs signed a petition hoping to end these negative reviews. Fake restaurants with glowing reviews have also been created, in Devon (2013) and Italy (earlier this year), by those looking to show just how unreliable these sites can be.

Negative reviews revolving around trivial details, ranging from rants about the state of the toilet (and not the food/restaurant) to even confessions of not even having eaten at the restaurant due to reservation hiccups, pop up every now and again. So, while you do get a great deal of quantity, question marks remain over the quality of the content.

Another commonly noted observation involves the fact that these sites are used extensively by tourists. Reviews are usually then based on a sole visit. Also, with fine dining and casual restaurants being listed together, these single visits may not be to places where locals like to eat at. Would their reviews lead to a true reflection of the city’s restaurant scene?

Now, on to food bloggers. There are certainly a number of well-respected bloggers, some of whom I admire and follow intently. Armed with a wealth of knowledge, they offer approachable, fair reviews of places they’ve been to. However, with restaurants, especially new ones, recognising the growing importance of social media in their marketing plans, the concurrent mushrooming of new bloggers has created a new problem. While some question whether these new bloggers actually know their stuff, there is a more pressing issue at hand: restaurants inviting bloggers to private and soft launch tastings is commonplace, but paying them in order to be reviewed positively? Is this ethical? Is there not a conflict of interest?

Gauthier Soho’s now-famous attack on food bloggers has highlighted a nasty consequence of this development: bloggers blackmailing restaurants for free meals in exchange for positive judgement, or even worse, negative reviews if they don’t comply. It is entirely possible that the wrong signals are being sent to the public who are reading these tainted reviews. So, is the true aim of bloggers meant to be independent “reporters”, or are they just marketing tools? And is it really that easy to differentiate the partial from the fair ones?

In light of these issues, here are some of the alternative solutions that I’ve come across:

– Originally a mobile-only social network for chefs and food lovers, ChefsFeed has transformed itself into a guide for dishes and restaurants recommended by top chefs. They home in on the positives, as selected by the people whom they believe are the best placed to do so.

– Itruereview is a platform aiming to deal with fake reviews by allowing diners to write them while still on site. The review is then verified afterwards by email.

– Zomato’s Foodfeed allows you to be part of a community of users you trust; by following them, you’ll get updates on the reviews they post.

– Saving you the trouble of having to comb through different guides, the AllinLondon Top 100 list aggregates scores based mainly on Michelin, AA Rosettes and Good Food Guide ratings, in addition to other ratings like the Sunday Times Top 100. It is updated at the end of every season.

– Steve Plotnicki’s Opinionated About Dining looks to find the middle ground between formal guides and crowd-sourced sites, by listing the top 100+ restaurants in the US and Europe. With a membership community of “highly literate connoisseurs” and ratings weighted by experience, restaurants without marketing budgets have a higher chance of being included, in contrast to the major publications.

The thing is, no source is perfect; using a variety to gather views from different people may be your best bet. However, no matter which source you use, it may not necessarily translate into a meal that you’d like. Have you ever had the experience of having an excellent meal at a particular restaurant, but then received bad feedback from your friends about the place after recommending it to them? Or been on the other side, and had a bad meal at a restaurant that was highly lauded in the press?

There are a number of points that I can think of, which I think can be noted while recommending a restaurant to a friend, or writing reviews:

– Preferences

Simply put, taste is subjective; we don’t all like the exact same things. Some people like light flavours, while others prefer bold ones; an enjoyable meal with clean, bright flavours might not be someone else’s cup of strongly brewed tea. I can go on and on about different cuisines, styles etc, but you get the point. This can often lead to wildly differing views on restaurants. Even the  national paper critics are not immune to this, as described in the recent article by Peter Preston, in which Jay Rayner and AA Gill disagree over Duck and Rice, for instance.

What can we do about this? If you have a plethora of places to recommend when friends ask for one, it might be helpful to first ask them what kind of styles/flavour profiles they like, and choose accordingly. While writing reviews, we can also talk about our own preferences, which can provide a context to what we like about a meal. We should also be doing a little groundwork while looking for restaurants: check out the menu, see if there have been any changes to management/kitchen staff, and find out what they are trying to bring to the dining scene.

– Expectations

Talking up a place excessively can cause expectations to skyrocket. Telling others “Oh my, the meal I just had at xxxx was the best I ever had in my life” could end up making their own experience fall flat on its face. While the food may be superb, if it couldn’t live up to the sky-high expectations, it may turn into a poor experience overall.

What can we do about this? Try to be as objective as possible, focus more on the details of the meal, rather than simply enthuse about it. A simple way of stripping away any bells and whistles would be to ask yourself one question: will you remember this meal after a year? (for the right reasons of course)

– Reference points

We are innately built to have reference points: we unconsciously (or consciously) compare everything in order in order to make better sense of them. For dining experiences, this reference point can be a past meal with a similar style, cuisine, price point, or maybe even a prior meal at the same place.

What can we do about this? Let people know about the other possible reference points you used in making your conclusions about a place.

In general, as Adam Goldberg (editor of Drift and Ambrosia) aptly said, there is a distinction between a bad meal and a bad restaurant, and it takes more than one meal to pass judgement. Also, in the words of Fay Maschler, restaurant criticism has evolved to become a source of entertainment, rather than simply serving a useful function. So, keep your reviews useful, balanced, and interesting!

What are your thoughts?

Would you reckon the following idea could work: a crowd-sourced site in different countries where people only list their 5 favourite places for fine dining and local gems separately. Your choices can be updated upon going to new restaurants, each reflecting the number of times visited, and you can follow friends and people you trust based on their preferences.

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Information from the following sources were used:

Opentable
Eater
Staff Canteen
The Caterer
The Guardian
The Telegraph
The Economist
The Straits Times
San Francisco Chronicle

Corner House (Singapore)

Number of visits: 2

Nestled within the Botanic Gardens, a recently inscribed UNESCO World Heritage site, the Corner House provides a welcome escape from the city’s concrete forest. Drawing inspiration from the surrounding lush greenery, the restaurant describes its food as “Gastro-Botanica”, where produce is given equal footing with proteins. At the helm is Chef Jason Tan, who has been through the kitchens of Les Amis, Sky on 57, and Robuchon Au Dome, giving rise to Contemporary French dishes dotted with Asian influences (think Soya and Kaya).

Onions are an oft-overlooked vegetable; here, onions from Cévennes, prized for their delicate sweetness, are rightfully celebrated .Imagine an onion cloud; an ethereal espuma of onion, its sweet, almost honey-like flavour dissipating slowly on the tongue. A softly-cooked egg lay in the middle, the yolk lazily oozing out upon contact, adding warmth and depth like the sun. Croutons, and a dehydrated wafer of onion provided lovely textural contrasts, each bite the crackling of lightning. Pure bliss.

By treating top quality ingredients with finesse, it’s not hard to see why the restaurant has emerged as one of the country’s most exciting dining destinations. The perfect accompaniment if you make a special trip to the Botanic Gardens. Or is that the other way round?

Corner House
1 Cluny Road, Singapore Botanic Gardens
Singapore 259569

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GastroSmiths Bistro & Bakery (Singapore)

Number of visits: 1

The latest project from the team behind now-closed café The Humble Loaf, GastroSmiths is a step up to the larger stage as a fully-fledged bistro. The menu travels the globe, jumping from Italy to Asia, resulting in an intriguing array of dishes ranging from pastas to various seafood and meat choices. Bread used in their sandwiches and bruschettas are baked fresh daily too.

Generous tranches of flaky cod cooked with chilli oil lay on top of Mee Sua, Chinese noodles made from wheat flour. The use of dashi and mirin during the cooking process added depth, the sweetness rounding off the spicy kick from kimchi puree and chilli threads.

Amidst the numerous steamboat and Chinese restaurants in Bugis, Gastrosmith’s well thought out combinations at great value makes it an interesting choice for something different in the area.

GastroSmiths Bistro & Bakery
103 Beach Road, Tan Quee Lan Street
Singapore 189704

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 Moosehead Kitchen-Bar (Singapore)

Number of visits: 2

A short walk from the city’s financial district, Moosehead’s buzzy vibe with its edgy decor and music stand outs from the row of shophouses it’s housed in.  The menu is concise, making good use of a charcoal grill to lend smoky notes to sharing plates with Mediterranean flavours at its core.

A beautifully cooked fillet of Sea bass was a beneficiary of the grill, the light char melding nicely with bits of eggplant. The anchovy butter lay hidden in the background, adding an underlying savouriness. A really tasty dish.

A change of the head chef in the early part of the year has not altered the restaurant’s direction; to offer a dining experience with experimental and bold food alongside art and music . Despite the assured cooking and daring flavour pairings, the restaurant is still somewhat of a hidden gem. It’s a place I readily recommend to my friends whenever I can.

Moosehead Kitchen-Bar
110 Telok Ayer Street
Singapore 068579

Le Champignon Sauvage (Cheltenham)

Number of visits: 1

It’s impossible to write about the restaurant without bringing in owners David (head chef) and Helen (front of house) Everitt-Matthais; impressively, they’ve been ever-present for service over the past 28 years. Together, they’ve built a true institution in the middle of Cheltenham that is amongst the first in the UK to cook with the seasons, and source ingredients locally (think: Venison from the Cotswolds, and foraged ingredients like Mugwort). Dishes are rooted in French cuisine, cooked in a sophisticated, yet unassuming manner.

A sweet course of mango and green curry sorbet was a showstopper; sweet, juicy slices of mango were caramelised, and placed on top of a layer of set cream infused with Thai spices. The sorbet had a depth of flavour associated with long hours of simmering coriander and lemongrass with coconut milk, but with the right amount of sweetness to work as a dessert.

Set menus are offered for both lunch and dinner, while a full à la carte menu is also available for both services. The exquisite food, fantastic value, and warm service here makes it an ideal place to dine at while exploring the scenic Cotswolds (renting a car makes it easier if you don’t have one).

Le Champignon Sauvage
24-26 Suffolk Road, Cheltenham
GL50 2AQ

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Brunswick House 

Number of visits: 1

Located within the Brunswick House, the restaurant doubles as a showroom for LASSCO (an architecture antiques company), resulting in one of the most quirky dining settings ever; imagine chandeliers of all shapes and sizes hanging from the ceiling, and sculptures dotted around the dining room. Adding to the casual and lively vibe is the menu; seasonal British in the mould of Great Queen Street and Rochelle Canteen, places where chef Jackson Boxer has spent time at.

The firm, almost meat-like texture of the monkfish stood up well to a light briny broth, which was accentuated by the samphire and cockles. Grilled sprouting broccoli added a nice crunch and charred nuttiness, while lemon puree freshened things up. A great example of the faultless cooking here.

I first found out about the place after reading Boxer’s Cook Residency articles (a 3 week column) for the Guardian last month. After spending weeks and months attempting to locate the best restaurants in London, it’s a real puzzle as to why I’ve only found out about this place recently. The cooking here definitely deserves more recognition; I’m already planning for another meal here!

Brunswick House
30 Wandsworth Road
London SW8 2LG

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Michael Wignall at the Latymer (Bagshot)

Number of visits: 1

It can be argued that cooking at the highest level means being able to put your own identity on the plate. At Pennyhill Park, Michael Wignall has put together a menu that is uniquely his, after amassing a vast amount of experience from multiple top level kitchens around the country (L’Ortolan and the Devonshire Arms amongst others). Showing influences from various cuisines, dishes showcase flair and superb technical ability, where multiple components dovetail in perfect harmony on each plate.

The squab was cooked pink, the fat rendered perfectly to provide the most flavoursome of coatings. Different preparations of onions (and members of its family) added sweet earthy notes; the reduced Jerez providing just enough acidity to round off all the flavours. There were many different textures and tastes going on, making for really complex bites.

Numerous small treats were also presented at various points of the meal, which meant more opportunities for the kitchen to dazzle us with their wizardry, and made the whole experience all the more memorable. Oh, don’t forget to ask for a tour of the kitchen, and the private dining room to see some of the fascinating special effects they utilise in there!

Michael Wignall at the Latymer
Pennyhill Park Hotel, London Road
Bagshot GU19 5EU

*Last updated in October

Just thought I’d make a quick list of some places which I like, based on the past couple of years. Lists such as this are subjective though; check out their menu and style online to find out more.

Hope it works as a quick reference!

Pitt Cue Co

A small, buzzy underground spot for some of the best barbecue in London.

Think: Pulled pork with green chilli slaw

Homeslice

Wood-fired pizzas with both classic and unique flavour combinations.

Think: Caramelised onions, kalamanta olives & anchovy

Hereford Road

No-nonsense British cooking in the mould of St John’s.

Think: Whole grilled mackerel, cucumber, kohlrabi and sea dulse

Pizzaro

The second, larger site from Spanish Maestro Jose Pizzaro.

Think: Glazed monkfish, with tomato bored and jamón

Barrafina

Consistently brilliant Spanish tapas from the Hart Brothers, with exciting daily specials

Think: Grilled quail with aioli

Donostia

Marvellous Basque tapas in a quiet spot near Marble Arch.

Think: Crispy fried cod cheeks with black squid ink aioli

Copita 

Delicious spanish tapas with a twist.

Think: Sweet potato, bravas sauce, aioli & nuts

 Atari-ya 

Supplier of some of the best fish and other seafood to top Japanese restaurants in London; it serves up the produce at various locations

Think: Deluxe Chirashi (Eel, crab, fatty tuna, scallop etc)

Sushi-Say 

A traditional Japanese eatery offering a range of dishes from sashimi to yakitori.

Think: Seasoned tempura on rice

Zuma

Stylish modern Japanese dishes from the Zuma group’s London outpost.

Think: Sliced seared tuna with chilli daikon and ponzu sauce

Polpetto 

Italian-inspired plates from the star of the Polpo group.

Think: Burrata, agretti, chilli

Elliot’s 

Top ingredients from Borough Market treated simply, with some interesting combinations.

Think: Smoked cod’s roe, melon & bull’s heart tomato

Harwood Arms 

Sophisticated dishes using seasonal British ingredients in a pub setting.

Think: Loin of Herdwick lamb with black garlic, artichokes and creamed spinach

Bull & Last 

Gutsy, generous British cooking in a relaxed atmosphere.

Think: Slow cooked pigs check, ratte potato puree, roast apple and black pudding

The Dairy & The Manor 

Sister restaurants from Robin Gill, where Britain meets Scandinavia for some exciting flavour combinations

Think: Applewood smoked eel, black garlic, rooftop onion / St George’s mushrooms, baby spinach, fermented nettle & hay

Artusi 

Peckham local featuring a short menu of Italian-inspired dishes.

Think: Langoustine, purple sprouting broccoli and Ndujá

Zucca 

Light Italian menu of antipasti, home made pasta, secondi and dessert

Think: Tagliatelle, gorgonzola, cima & walnuts

St John Bread & Wine 

Nose-to-tail eating in an informal setting, with a menu that changes twice a day.

Think: Crispy pig’s cheek, dandelion & aioli

Lyle’s 

Clever, timeless cooking using seasonal British ingredients.

Think: Saddleback, anchovy & onions

Antidote 

A wine bar with contemporary cooking, where superb ingredients are allowed to shine.

Think: Goosnargh duck breast, carrot, cinnamon & basil

 Picture 

Vibrant small plates in the heart of Fitzrovia.

Think: Grilled sea bream, fennel, courgette, tomato vinaigrette

Quality Chop House 

Masterful renditions of British classics in a Grade-II listed building

Think: Morels on toast

The Ritz 

Some of the best classical French cooking in one of London’s most beautiful dining rooms.

Think: Saddles of Lamb Belle Epoque

Taberna Do Mercado 

Nuno Mendes’s new casual Portuguese eatery has been a hit with its flavoursome sharing plates of traditional dishes brought to the next level.

Think: Cuttlefish and pig trotters coentrada

Primeur 

Daily changing menu of honest cooking with mediterranean influences.

Think: Squid, capers, lemon & parsley

Brunswick House Cafe

Well-crafted dishes using wonderful British produce.

Think: Monkfish, Cockles & Sprouting Broccoli

Naughty Piglets 

Brixton wine bar with a short menu of dishes with influences from around the world

Think: BBQ pork belly, sesame, Korean spices

Rex & Mariano (closing)

The freshest seafood of the finest quality prepared simply. The raw red prawns (Gambero Rosso) are a true show stopper.

Think: Sicilian large stripe prawns with lemon, red chilli, parsley, and olive oil

Bao 

Taiwanese-style steamed buns and other small dishes at one of London’s hottest restaurants.

Think: Confit pork belly with dried shallots in a bun

Odette’s 

Classy French dishes reflecting Chef Patron Bryn Williams’s Welsh roots.

Think: Welsh lamb, spiced aubergine, artichokes & wild garlic

Bonhams

Top-of-the-line ingredients with some real classy cooking

Think:  Vendée quail breast and confit leg with smoked pomme purée, charred sweetcorn and seared foie gras

Portland

Sublime Modern European dishes with Asian influences.

Think: Pig’s head croquette, fermented chilli, radish

The Clove Club 

The best of Modern British, with innovative takes on locally-sourced ingredients

Think: Cornish turbot, morels, peas, cinnamon & curry leaf

Kitchen Table

Tasting menu-only format around a U-bar featuring superb ingredients and technical ability

Think: Onion, truffle & pear

Fera at Claridge’s 

Sophisticated, classy cooking from Simon Rogan’s London restaurant, utilizing produce from his farm in the Lake District

Think: Grilled salad smoked over embers, isle of Mull, truffle custard & sunflower seeds

Dinner By Heston Blumenthal 

Exceptional reinvented historical British dishes.

Think: Ragù of pig’s eat on toast

The Ledbury

Sensational, refined dishes using the very best of British ingredients. Game is a real treat here.

Think: Fallow doe with white beetroot, rhubarb, olive & picked wild rose

Restaurant Story

Unique, exciting cooking from one of London’s most ambitious chefs

Think: Heritage potato, turnip and coal

Typing Room

Intricate dishes with bright, vibrant flavours

Think: Sea trout, gooseberries, chard & smoked eel

Sushi Tetsu 

The ultimate sushi and sashimi experience at a 7-seater in Clerkenwell.

Think: Seared jumbo shrimp sushi

Hedone

World-class ingredients given the perfect platform to shine.

Think: Liquid parmesan ravioli, sweet onion consommé, mild horseradish, guanciale

Texture

Scandinavian-inspired dishes with a light touch.

Think: Cornish skate wing, watercress, barley, rye bread & salsify

Chez Bruce 

Assured cooking with French/Mediterranean influences from a long standing Wandsworth institution.

Think: Foie gras and chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche

Pollen Street Social

Contemporary and informal dining at Jason Atherton’s flagship restaurant.

Think: Cumbrian suckling pig, roasted apple, king cabbage and granola clusters

City Social

The very best of sky high dining in the City.

Think: Tidenham duck breast, braised leg, wild garlic polenta, morel infused consommé

The Waterside Inn (Bray)

Number of visits: 1

Ah, the Waterside Inn. A true bastion of French cooking with its picturesque setting along the idyllic River Thames. Once led by legendary Chef Michel Roux Snr, it is now in the very capable hands of son Alain Roux. The dishes here, while rooted in classical French, showed a light touch, as shown by this dish of hake, stuffed lettuce, and creamed mushroom sauce.

Slivers of just-cooked hake yielded easily to the fork, its subtle taste heightened by the sauce of mushrooms, which had a great depth of flavour. Asparagus, lettuce, and peas brought vibrancy and different textures to the plate.

The restaurant celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, and it’s not difficult to figure out the reasons behind its longevity. It isn’t just the quality of food; service, led by Maître d’ extraordinaire Diego, was in a class of its own; warm, attentive, and with the right touch of professionalism. Although it may be a little on the pricy side, a meal here is a most enjoyable experience, and one you will remember for a long time.

The Waterside Inn
Ferry Road, Bray
Berkshire SL6 2AT

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The Hinds Head (Bray)

Number of visits: 1

It’s not easiest of tasks to shine whilst in the vicinity of two 3-michelin starred restaurants (within walking distance!), but the Hinds Head does so with aplomb. This could be put down to Heston Blumenthal’s magic touch; there’s so many things to like about the place. While maintaining the rustic character of a traditional pub, it offers a menu of historic British dishes brought into the modern era, like this one with pigeon, celeriac, hazelnuts, and dates.

The breast was tender with a rich gamey flavour, working beautifully with the slices of sweet, nutty celeriac. The leg was braised and enclosed within crispy pastry, combining with the hazelnuts to provide delightful textural contrasts.

It’s interesting to see how food from a previous era can be “updated”; with the level of execution observed here, it can amaze both your tastebuds and mind. I can’t think of a better place to experience this process, than right here.

The Hinds Head
High Street, Bray
Berkshire SL6 2AB

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Naughty Piglets 

Number of visits: 1

It looks like the husband and wife team of Joe Sharratt and Margaux Aubry have found a winning formula for a smart and successful local gem. Having spent time as head chef of Trinity, Joe heads up the kitchen here, elevating simple dishes to a superb level, while Margaux, previously of Terroirs, runs the front of house, giving out the best of drink recommendations.

A favourite dish was one of pork, sesame, and korean spices. Fresh slices of spring onion were sharp; the sweetness pairing delightfully with the char from the pork. The flavours on the plate were brought up a notch by the tangy and spicy korean sauce/dip. Sweet, sour, bitter, salt, umami; it was balanced and truly tasty.

The menu has a small plates format meant for sharing; go in a bigger group so you won’t have the problem I had of struggling to narrow down what I wanted to try. It may still be early days, but Naughty Piglets is proving itself to be a lovely addition to the Brixton restaurant scene.

Naughty Piglets
28 Brixton Water Lane
London SW2 1PE

Restaurant Sat Bains (Nottingham)

Number of visits: 1

“Even if you think you’re heading in the wrong direction, just keep going” was what another chef said about the journey there. This turned out to be a rather sound piece of advice; I actually thought we made a wrong turn twice along the way. Located in the industrial district of Nottingham, the restaurant is a true destination dining spot, with Roux Scholar Sat Bains at the helm. Only tasting menus are offered, where each dish is described by its taste profile (sour, sweet, salt, bitter and umami). The food here displays technical brilliance and influences from around the world; a favourite was a dish of scallops with trotter, ponzu and katsuobushi.

Two plump scallops were tucked under a blanket of ponzu jelly, its citrusy flavour providing a pleasant contrast against the savoury discs of trotter meat. Katsuobushi mayonnaise was a brilliant inclusion, adding another layer of complexity to the dish.

Dining on the Kitchen Bench in the pastry kitchen was a great deal of fun, where the chefs demonstrated the various techniques they used and went into in-depth explanations on how the dishes were prepared. The top level of cooking coupled with the fantastic dining experience made for one of the best meals I’ve had, ever. Interestingly, outside of the main building, a special development kitchen (Nucleus), was being built during my visit, and it will operate as a standalone “restaurant within a restaurant”, with diners having their meal within the facility itself.

Restaurant Sat Bains
Lenton Lane
Nottingham NG7 2SA

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Pollen Street Social

Number of visits: 2

Jason Atherton has opened a slew of successful restaurants around the world (see October 2014 post for City Social), but his flagship remains one of the finest choices to dine at in the capital. Modern and buzzy, the food it offers is Modern British, with dishes such as Cumbrian suckling pig, roasted apple, king cabbage and granola clusters showing sound flavour combinations.

Different cuts of the pig were presented; peppery notes and tartness from the apple cut through the unctuousness of the belly beautifully, while the loin was tender and flavoursome. I really enjoyed the addition of the granola clusters, each providing a nutty crunch of sweetness. Interchanging between bites of the various components rounded out the flavours nicely.

Despite Social Company’s busy schedule with new restaurant plans for The Clocktower in New York, and Social Wine & Tapas and Sosharu in London (just to name a few), the cooking at Pollen Street Social has not lost any of its lustre. Credit must go to head chef Dale Bainbridge for propelling the restaurant further , and puts any doubts over the quality of the burgeoning restaurant empire to bed. The April edition of Restaurant Magazine delves into some of the reasons behind the group’s success, such as allowing each chef’s identity to shine at each restaurant, and having a strong collaborative culture. A great read.

Pollen Street Social
8-10 Pollen Street
London W1S 1NQ

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Sushi Tetsu

Number of visits: 1

It took more than 200 calls to get a table here, but boy, was it worth the effort. Reservations at former Nobu chef Toru Takahashi’s 7-seater restaurant are one of the hardest to obtain in London, not least due to the unconventional method of making bookings (see their website for more information).  It is all worth all the trouble though; the freshest of seafood are prepared with the most skilful of touches for a masterclass in sashimi and sushi. Pre-order for the Omakase, or decide what you want on the day itself, and off Toru-san goes on a little dance, slicing fish with a deft touch, moulding rice together with them, lightly scorching the surface with a blow torch to lend a charred flavour.

The mackerel sushi was most delightful; the fish licked by the flames from the blow torch, lying on top of beautifully vinegar-ed rice. A light smear of soy and grated ginger was all it needed to make for an absolutely divine mouthful.

Sushi Tetsu serves the best sushi I’ve had in London, and rightfully so, given its focus. The emergence of the Araki, however, spells exciting times ahead for the Japanese food scene. Checking for cancellations on Twitter might be the easiest way of getting a spot here, especially if you are unable to plan too far in advance. If not, you just have to keep plugging away by phone.

Sushi Tetsu
12 Jerusalem Passage
London EC1V 4JP

The Dairy

Number of visits: 2

Big sister to the Manor (see December 2014 post), The Dairy has amassed a huge following for its sort-of-Nordic-influenced-but-still-resolutely-British food. (they grow some of their ingredients on the roof!)  Together, with the top notch cooking and big flavour hits amidst the rustic setting, they form a couple of my favourite places in London right now; dishes here are meant to be shared, but you might not want to after tasting them, like this one of Skate, toasted cauliflower, romanesco and dulse butter.

The delicate flavour of the Skate was lifted by the sweet nuttiness from the cauliflower and romanseco, while the dulse butter brought everything together beautifully (i love seaweed!)

Chef Robin Gill has had his hands full over the past few months, launching The Manor and the Bloodshot Supper Club, while preparing for the opening of a deli next to the Diary. He’s not done yet though, not by a long shot.  He’s working on another (!) opening in Benthal Green, and it’e due to open in the middle of the year. Keep your eyes peeled for the launch; it promises to be a hit.

The Dairy
15 The Pavement
SW4 0HY

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Restaurant Story

Number of visits: 2

I think a quote from Zagat on the restaurant’s website best describes Story, in that it is the closet you can get to the Fat Duck in London. Far from being an imitation, it tells its own distinct story: wildly innovative food, bold flavours and some really eye catching presentations (think smoked prawns on top of a smoke drum of sorts and a melting candle of beef fat). One such example is the pudding of almond and dill.

The almond: almond ice cream, milk and crumb formed the “white” of the dish, while the dill: dill snow and oil formed the “green”. Visually striking, it delivered on the taste front as well. The grassiness from the dill and the sweet nuttiness from the almond may have come across as a slightly odd pairing, but in truth it was a brilliant combination that will leave you wanting more. I really liked this.

So, what’s next for chef Tom Sellers? He opened a pub, the Lickfold Inn, a few months back and will publish a book later on this year. The main focus is still on writing his Story, and the sky’s the limit.

Restaurant Story
199 Tooley Street
London SE1 2JX

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The Clove Club

Number of visits: 2

Upon pushing open the blue doors of the Shoreditch Town Hall, you’ll walk past a room on the left with cured meats hanging from the ceiling. It’s a common theme as you get to see more hanging about in the bar and the main dining room itself; it adds to the casual, inviting feel chef Isaac Mchale is gunning for. Modern British food is the order of the day here, where daring flavour combinations make for interesting eating, like this dish of Scallop, Hazelnut, Sudachi and truffle.

Sweet creamy scallops were sandwiched by citrusy sudachi zest and an intense truffle puree, while earthy slivers of Perigord truffle and white mushrooms sat on top. Each component worked together to produce a quite astonishing medley of flavours and textures; it certainly was one of the most unique dishes I’ve ever had.

Not wanting to be too caught up in new fangled techniques and showmanship, the meal also featured 2 really superb broths (one was a really flavoursome duck consommé with mushrooms and ginger, while the other was made from turbot bones and could easily star at a top Japanese restaurant), where the focus was solely on flavour itself. A really lovely touch!

As things stand, it looks like they will be the first restaurant in London to adopt the Tock ticketing system (used by Per Se and the French Laundry in the US), where you pay upfront for your meal, just as you would for a sports event or the theatre. It will be really interesting to see how it will be received here.

The Clove Club
Shoreditch Town Hall
380 Old Street
London EC1V 9LT

Kitchen Table

Number of visits: 2

Chef-owner James Knappett has worked at a number of top notch restaurants over the course of his career: Noma, Per Se, and notably Marcus Wareing where he was head chef for a couple of years. At Kitchen Table, he challenges London’s best cooking in a most unique setting: a U-shaped counter surrounding an open kitchen, hidden in the back of Bubbledogs (his hotdogs & champagne spot). Described by single words (the main ingredient) on a blackboard, the ever-changing tasting menu is the sole option available, and consists of 12-14 courses depending on the season. Dishes here are deceptively simple, with a small number of ingredients executed and paired brilliantly, as showcased by this course of onion, truffle, and pear.

Onions were prepared in different textures, their sweetness echoed by the tinge of floral notes from the pear. Enveloping them was a silky sauce made from glorious 36-month aged Parmesan; creamy and decadent, it screamed UMAMI (in caps lock no less). Finished with a shaving of Perigord truffle, the dish had a heady, musky aroma that lingered on the palate.

With a shiny star from the Michelin guide under its belt this year, Kitchen Table has made strides since opening 3 years ago. The mix of inventive cooking and classical touches, coupled with the close interaction you have with the chefs, make for one of the most exciting dining experiences in London.

Kitchen Table
70 Charlotte Street
London W1T 4QQ

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The Ledbury

Number of visits: 2

The Ledbury appears regularly on “best of- lists”, and has gained numerous accolades along with international recognition. It has, however, remained unassuming and feels very much like a neighbourhood restaurant. Much of this can be put down to head chef Brett Graham, who wants customers to enjoy a real food experience. His love of British game makes it a highlight here, and the cooking exhibits precision at the highest level with beautiful flavour combinations, such as this course of Flame grilled mackerel, pickled cucumber, celtic mustard and shiso.

One of the restaurant’s signature dishes, it features a fillet of mackerel licked by fire to produce a slightly charred, crisp layer of skin and tender flesh. Mackerel tartare wrapped in a case of cucumber like a sweet added a delicate lightness to the plate, and displays the kitchen’s technical ability. A sauce of shiso, garlic, soy and mirin lifted the dish and made for a most delicious plate of food.

Jocky, former Head of Development at the Fat Duck, (you might have seen him in some of Heston’s videos) joined the team last year in a similar capacity to bring the restaurant to the next level. It will be intriguing to see how the food evolves further, and I’ll definitely be back sometime down the road to check it out!

The Ledbury
127 Ledbury Road
London W11 2AQ

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Hedone

Number of visits: 2

Chef patron Mickael Jonsson has undergone an intriguing journey before opening Hedone: from battling serious food allergies to becoming a solicitor and food writer, before deciding to get behind the pass. His passion for ingredients has led him to source for the best in each category (really top notch), and a light touch is added to elevate them, like this dish of Roasted Coucou de Rennes chicken, Luberon asparagus, and vin Jaune.

The photo probably doesn’t do it justice, but this was easily the best chicken dish I ever had. The Coucou De Rennes chicken is an ancient breed, raised by a small number of farmers today. By roasting it, the deep flavour of the meat really shone through, with the tasty layer of skin and sauce of vin Jaune with mushroom-like notes making each bite an intense mouthful. A puree, shavings and stems of asparagus from Luberon provided a fresh textural contrast.

A meal here is akin to getting an education in ingredients, where you get to find out about the best varieties and their sources. Bread is made in house as well, with their sourdough widely regarded as the best in London. Only a tasting menu and Carte Blanche (you leave the menu to the kitchen entirely) are available (there is a shorter 4 course menu at lunch), but you’d know what to expect: a real respect for superlative ingredients.

Hedone
301-303 Chiswick High Road
London W4 4HH

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 I’d really loathe leaving out a superb meal at the Laundry, so here it is:

Ben Spalding at The Laundry

I never had the chance of sampling Ben Spalding’s cooking at Roganic and John Salt, and missed out on his series of pop ups (Stripped Back and No Rules), so this was an exciting opportunity to finally do so.

At this month-long residency that began in February, he presents some of London’s most inventive cooking (think whipped tuna or Lasagne of Crab), with quirky flavour combinations that make you go “wow, what was that?”  Puddings are a massive hit as well, and I’d struggle to recall many better finishes anywhere. The best bit of course, is that the residency has been extended till the end of March.

The Laundry
2-18 Warburton Road
London E8 3FN

Lyle’s

Number of visits: 2

Named after head chef and co-owner James Lowe’s (of Young Turk fame) grandmother,  Lyle’s is situated in the Tea Building, a 10-15 minute stroll from Liverpool Street Station. The large airy space and minimalistic setting allows the spotlight to shine on the food itself, and boy, does it impress. The menu changes daily, and is a nod to James’s time at St. John Bread and Wine; lamb hearts in this instance. Ingredients are seasonal, flavours clean, as shown by this plate of January King, mussels and seaweed.

January king, a winter cabbage, was sweet, and smoky round the edges, as only a good char can provide; mussels were dotted all over, lending a briny chew to every mouthful. The real star, however, was the sauce pooled under the cabbage. Rich and luscious, it tasted like the most intense mussel cream that you can imagine, with flecks of seaweed adding further depth. Thank goodness there was still some of the bread from the beginning of the meal to mop up every single drop.

Compared to my first lunch here, there were more options on the menu this time around.  It is interesting to note that while lunch is wholly ala carte, dinner is a set menu only affair. The belief is that this makes choosing easier for customers, and also allows us to discover ingredients/pairings that we would usually not go for. Either way, it’s a lovely place to have a meal at.

Lyle’s
Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street
London E1 6JJ

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Spring

Number of visits: 1

I never had the chance to sample Skye Gyngell’s cooking at Petersham Nurseries (it would have been a long journey out to Richmond for me), so I was delighted to be able to do so at her new restaurant in such a central location. Utilizing a space within Somerset House that had not been open to the public for the past 150 years, the dining room is very pretty with soft colours. The menu shows a strong Italian influence, and works hand in hand with the décor: rustic, generous and wholesome. Starters are simpler, allowing the ingredients to shine through, while mains are hearty and flavoursome, such as this dish of Halibut, salsify, agretti and seaweed butter.

The fillet of Halibut was capped by wonderfully crisp skin, while the salsify was tender and mild, with the agretti providing a nice grassy textural contrast. They were all bathed in a sauce of seaweed butter that was very tasty and brought the dish together.

The cooking here has an understated simplicity to it, demonstrating a keen understanding of flavour pairings. While there have been some gripes about the size of the menu (about 5-6 options for starters and mains), I would think that this is a very pleasant place to celebrate a special occasion at.

Spring
Somerset House, Lancaster Place
London WC2R 1LA

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The French (Manchester)

Number of visits: 1

Simon Rogan’s first permanent venture into a big city garnered quite a bit of attention when it first opened, as he attempted to win Manchester a Michelin star (Restaurant Wars: The Battle for Manchester is a really interesting behind-the-scenes look at how The French and Manchester House came to be where they are today). Headed by Adam Reid, the current incarnation of The French offers a 6/10-course menu. The food style is very much what you would come to expect from a Simon Rogan venture: creative takes on fantastic British ingredients: as exemplified by this dish of sea bass, purple sprouting broccoli, potatoes and cockles.

The beautifully seasoned sea bass was delicious on its own, its buttery texture working well with the little balls of potatoes that had a nice flavour after being cooked in chicken fat. A touch of bitterness was added by sprigs of barbecued purple sprouting broccoli, which were nestled on top of a sweet broccoli puree that balanced the dish.

It’s been close to 2 years since The French came under new direction, and while accolades have been pouring in since, it’s still quite a surprise how the mysterious star has eluded them. (Manchester House should definitely be in contention as well)

The French
The Midland, Peter Street
Manchester M60 2DA