Portland
Number of visits: 3
With news came out about the strong team behind the restaurant, Portland quickly emerged as one of the most highly anticipated openings of the year. Founders Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau, were at the lovely Quality Chop House and 10 Greek Street respectively. In the kitchen, former In De Wulf sous Merlin Labron-Johnson has a penchant for strong flavours, achieved by techniques such as smoking, fermentation and curing. The menu is short and simple, changing regularly with a couple of specials on the wall board.
A first course of corn was most delightful. Sweet and smoky, every bite was not unlike buttery bursts of summer. Browned bread crumbs (I think) and girolles added texture, while a dollop of crème fraîche added just the right amount of tang, which left me wanting more.
From the cracking snacks to kick start a meal like pig’s head croquette, to the affable and passionate front of house, you can really feel that the place is a labour of love from the entire crew. It’s places like this, that will keep you coming back again and again.
Portland
113 Great Portland Street
London W1W 6QQ
The Square
Number of visits: 2
Phil Howard needs little introduction. Judge-mentor on last week’s Great British Menu’s Northern Ireland leg, he’s been hailed as a chef’s chef for his culinary accomplishments, amongst other numerous accolades. The restaurant itself celebrates its 24th anniversary this year, maintaining its long-standing place as a Mayfair institution since relocating from St James’s. Rooted in classical French techniques, the menu highlights the changes in seasons, with dishes cooked to the highest level of precision.
The lasagne of Dorset crab with a cappuccino of shellfish and champagne foam, is a signature for a reason. Layers of sweet crab meat were deftly sandwiched by toothsome spinach pasta, and topped with a dreamy cloud of champagne. The true showstopper, however, was the shellfish soup, rich with unbelievable depth. How many shellfish carcasses did it actually require to get that amount of flavour? Guess I’d have to find out from the restaurant’s book.
The kitchen doesn’t believe in chasing after the latest trends, rather, it focuses on the pursuit of pure deliciousness. It is this timeless approach, coupled with elegant cooking, that has allowed the restaurant to withstand the test of time, and ensures it remains more than relevant in the ever-evolving London scene.
The Square
6-10 Bruton Street
London W1J 6PU
Paradise Garage
Number of visits: 1
The third instalment (click on December and March for thoughts on the Manor and the Dairy) from Robin Gill and co sees a departure from Clapham, to a neat airy spot under the Bethnal Green railway arches. Under head chef Simon Woodrow (formerly of Arbutus, the Dairy and the Manor), the food continues in a similar vein, treating excellent ingredients with a modern touch to produce bold, complex flavours. The menu follows suit too, split into the different sections of: snacks, garden, sea, and land, with dessert overseen by Kira Ghidoni (from the Manor) for a fitting end to your meal. Unique to Paradise Garage is a standalone choice, Picnic, a celebration of rabbit to be shared by the whole table.
A dish of Presa, pig head, beans and lettuce was particularly outstanding. Presa (a cut from the pork shoulder) was cooked to just the right side of pink, preserving its juiciness. Coco beans were delightfully buttery, while the unctuous pig head was a welcome distraction between bites. Bits of anchovy melded into the sauce added another lovely flavour, rounding off the flavours on the plate.
These 3 restaurants may have come from the same stable, but they each have their own personality and individual quirks. What is clear though, is that they certainly stand out as some of the best options in town for a casual and fun dining experience.
Paradise Garage
254 Paradise Row, Bethnal Green
London E2 9LE
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