Le Champignon Sauvage (Cheltenham)
Number of visits: 1
It’s impossible to write about the restaurant without bringing in owners David (head chef) and Helen (front of house) Everitt-Matthais; impressively, they’ve been ever-present for service over the past 28 years. Together, they’ve built a true institution in the middle of Cheltenham that is amongst the first in the UK to cook with the seasons, and source ingredients locally (think: Venison from the Cotswolds, and foraged ingredients like Mugwort). Dishes are rooted in French cuisine, cooked in a sophisticated, yet unassuming manner.
A sweet course of mango and green curry sorbet was a showstopper; sweet, juicy slices of mango were caramelised, and placed on top of a layer of set cream infused with Thai spices. The sorbet had a depth of flavour associated with long hours of simmering coriander and lemongrass with coconut milk, but with the right amount of sweetness to work as a dessert.
Set menus are offered for both lunch and dinner, while a full à la carte menu is also available for both services. The exquisite food, fantastic value, and warm service here makes it an ideal place to dine at while exploring the scenic Cotswolds (renting a car makes it easier if you don’t have one).
Le Champignon Sauvage
24-26 Suffolk Road, Cheltenham
GL50 2AQ
Brunswick House
Number of visits: 1
Located within the Brunswick House, the restaurant doubles as a showroom for LASSCO (an architecture antiques company), resulting in one of the most quirky dining settings ever; imagine chandeliers of all shapes and sizes hanging from the ceiling, and sculptures dotted around the dining room. Adding to the casual and lively vibe is the menu; seasonal British in the mould of Great Queen Street and Rochelle Canteen, places where chef Jackson Boxer has spent time at.
The firm, almost meat-like texture of the monkfish stood up well to a light briny broth, which was accentuated by the samphire and cockles. Grilled sprouting broccoli added a nice crunch and charred nuttiness, while lemon puree freshened things up. A great example of the faultless cooking here.
I first found out about the place after reading Boxer’s Cook Residency articles (a 3 week column) for the Guardian last month. After spending weeks and months attempting to locate the best restaurants in London, it’s a real puzzle as to why I’ve only found out about this place recently. The cooking here definitely deserves more recognition; I’m already planning for another meal here!
Brunswick House
30 Wandsworth Road
London SW8 2LG
Michael Wignall at the Latymer (Bagshot)
Number of visits: 1
It can be argued that cooking at the highest level means being able to put your own identity on the plate. At Pennyhill Park, Michael Wignall has put together a menu that is uniquely his, after amassing a vast amount of experience from multiple top level kitchens around the country (L’Ortolan and the Devonshire Arms amongst others). Showing influences from various cuisines, dishes showcase flair and superb technical ability, where multiple components dovetail in perfect harmony on each plate.
The squab was cooked pink, the fat rendered perfectly to provide the most flavoursome of coatings. Different preparations of onions (and members of its family) added sweet earthy notes; the reduced Jerez providing just enough acidity to round off all the flavours. There were many different textures and tastes going on, making for really complex bites.
Numerous small treats were also presented at various points of the meal, which meant more opportunities for the kitchen to dazzle us with their wizardry, and made the whole experience all the more memorable. Oh, don’t forget to ask for a tour of the kitchen, and the private dining room to see some of the fascinating special effects they utilise in there!
Michael Wignall at the Latymer
Pennyhill Park Hotel, London Road
Bagshot GU19 5EU
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