Kitchen Table
Number of visits: 2
Chef-owner James Knappett has worked at a number of top notch restaurants over the course of his career: Noma, Per Se, and notably Marcus Wareing where he was head chef for a couple of years. At Kitchen Table, he challenges London’s best cooking in a most unique setting: a U-shaped counter surrounding an open kitchen, hidden in the back of Bubbledogs (his hotdogs & champagne spot). Described by single words (the main ingredient) on a blackboard, the ever-changing tasting menu is the sole option available, and consists of 12-14 courses depending on the season. Dishes here are deceptively simple, with a small number of ingredients executed and paired brilliantly, as showcased by this course of onion, truffle, and pear.
Onions were prepared in different textures, their sweetness echoed by the tinge of floral notes from the pear. Enveloping them was a silky sauce made from glorious 36-month aged Parmesan; creamy and decadent, it screamed UMAMI (in caps lock no less). Finished with a shaving of Perigord truffle, the dish had a heady, musky aroma that lingered on the palate.
With a shiny star from the Michelin guide under its belt this year, Kitchen Table has made strides since opening 3 years ago. The mix of inventive cooking and classical touches, coupled with the close interaction you have with the chefs, make for one of the most exciting dining experiences in London.
Kitchen Table
70 Charlotte Street
London W1T 4QQ
The Ledbury
Number of visits: 2
The Ledbury appears regularly on “best of- lists”, and has gained numerous accolades along with international recognition. It has, however, remained unassuming and feels very much like a neighbourhood restaurant. Much of this can be put down to head chef Brett Graham, who wants customers to enjoy a real food experience. His love of British game makes it a highlight here, and the cooking exhibits precision at the highest level with beautiful flavour combinations, such as this course of Flame grilled mackerel, pickled cucumber, celtic mustard and shiso.
One of the restaurant’s signature dishes, it features a fillet of mackerel licked by fire to produce a slightly charred, crisp layer of skin and tender flesh. Mackerel tartare wrapped in a case of cucumber like a sweet added a delicate lightness to the plate, and displays the kitchen’s technical ability. A sauce of shiso, garlic, soy and mirin lifted the dish and made for a most delicious plate of food.
Jocky, former Head of Development at the Fat Duck, (you might have seen him in some of Heston’s videos) joined the team last year in a similar capacity to bring the restaurant to the next level. It will be intriguing to see how the food evolves further, and I’ll definitely be back sometime down the road to check it out!
The Ledbury
127 Ledbury Road
London W11 2AQ
Hedone
Number of visits: 2
Chef patron Mickael Jonsson has undergone an intriguing journey before opening Hedone: from battling serious food allergies to becoming a solicitor and food writer, before deciding to get behind the pass. His passion for ingredients has led him to source for the best in each category (really top notch), and a light touch is added to elevate them, like this dish of Roasted Coucou de Rennes chicken, Luberon asparagus, and vin Jaune.
The photo probably doesn’t do it justice, but this was easily the best chicken dish I ever had. The Coucou De Rennes chicken is an ancient breed, raised by a small number of farmers today. By roasting it, the deep flavour of the meat really shone through, with the tasty layer of skin and sauce of vin Jaune with mushroom-like notes making each bite an intense mouthful. A puree, shavings and stems of asparagus from Luberon provided a fresh textural contrast.
A meal here is akin to getting an education in ingredients, where you get to find out about the best varieties and their sources. Bread is made in house as well, with their sourdough widely regarded as the best in London. Only a tasting menu and Carte Blanche (you leave the menu to the kitchen entirely) are available (there is a shorter 4 course menu at lunch), but you’d know what to expect: a real respect for superlative ingredients.
Hedone
301-303 Chiswick High Road
London W4 4HH
I’d really loathe leaving out a superb meal at the Laundry, so here it is:
Ben Spalding at The Laundry
I never had the chance of sampling Ben Spalding’s cooking at Roganic and John Salt, and missed out on his series of pop ups (Stripped Back and No Rules), so this was an exciting opportunity to finally do so.
At this month-long residency that began in February, he presents some of London’s most inventive cooking (think whipped tuna or Lasagne of Crab), with quirky flavour combinations that make you go “wow, what was that?” Puddings are a massive hit as well, and I’d struggle to recall many better finishes anywhere. The best bit of course, is that the residency has been extended till the end of March.
The Laundry
2-18 Warburton Road
London E8 3FN
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