Casamia (Bristol)
Number of visits: 1
Peter and Jonray Sanchez-Iglesias run this brilliant restaurant, which has received many accolades for its season-led menu (they change their decor accordingly as well). The 10 courses made for a journey of delightful eating, the food was playful at times, while showing exemplary levels of execution.
A plate of trout and cabbage was really interesting: the trout was cooked beautifully, the pink flesh yielding easily to the fork, while its subtle taste worked well with the different forms of cabbages, the charred one a particular stand out. The final touch of powdered purple cabbage created an aesthetic vibrancy along with an additional, delicate layer of flavour. An excellent dish that was well put together.
Casamia
38 High Street, Westbury Village
City of Bristol BS9 3DZ
The Manor
Number of visits: 1
New sister restaurant to Robin Gill’s much acclaimed The Dairy, The Manor seems very much to be cast from the same mould in terms of food style; fantastic ingredients with their natural flavours teased out and paired optimally.
Cauliflower might sound like a dull-ish ingredient, but here it really was something else. You know that moment when you taste something, and you go ” How on earth did they do that?!”? Well, you’ll get that here. There was a really complex taste, with multiple layers of flavours from the different components working harmoniously to great effect. There was the subtle sweet nuttiness of the cauliflower, the contrasting bitterness from cacao and umami from the kefir. The dates were an inspired addition, its sweetness elevating the profile of the dish. Also, the various textures on it and beautiful plating made for a stunning course.
You’ll get to adjourn to the dessert bar afterwards to witness your pudding being lovingly handcrafted (liquid nitrogen features heavily here). Easily one of, if not the best, openings of 2014.
The Manor
148 Clapham Manor Street
London SW4 6BX
The Fat Duck (Bray)
Number of visits: 1
Much has already been written about the Fat Duck, and duly so, as the food here is quite amazing. Modern techniques are used to produce whimsical courses that are really fun to eat, such as this one.
A foam made from mushrooms and seaweed bought about memories of the sea breeze, while moreish “sand” made from sardines and tapioca starch, a trio of King fish, octopus and mackerel (particularly good), and different types of seaweed worked together to interpret what the sea tastes like, in the best way possible. The famous ipod in a seashell playing the sound of the sea while you eat completes the multi-sensory component of the experience. (if you have the time, Taste: Surprising stories and science about why food tastes good by Barb Stuckey is a good read about how the different senses can add to your eating experience. This course is referenced in the book as well)
A real destination restaurant, it’s really worth coming here at least once to experience what they have to offer. You’ll have to wait till the latter part of the year to visit though, as they’ve made a short term move to Melbourne while the kitchen is being renovated.
The Fat Duck
High Street
Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AQ
December was a real bumper month, so I’d like to just sneak one more in by talking a little about:
Primeur
Tucked away in a space that existed as a motor shop previously, Primeur is a great gem that I wish opened nearer to where I live. A buzzy atmosphere, great cooking & wine (squid, lemon, capers and parsley was a particular highlight) made for a great evening here.
Primeur
Barnes Motors, 116 Petherton Road
London N5 2RT
tastythreets 